World-Class
Gem cutters and jewelers
Shop our handmade jewelry store  →
26+ years · Trusted by clients in the US, EU & AU WhatsApp +94 77 286 6467
Home · Jewelry Services

Jewelry Manufacturing

Handmade Gold & Silver Jewelry Services

Made by hand at the bench, not poured from a mould

Every piece we make is shaped from raw metal by a goldsmith, one at a time. Bring a sketch, a photo, or your own stone, and we build it from there. Most rings, pendants and earrings are finished in under two days.

Five handmade rings by City Gems, set with coloured gemstones
IGS MemberSince 2002
PayPalVerified Seller · 20+ years
99% SatisfactionUS · EU · Australia

The difference

Why handmade jewelry wears better

We make jewelry in 925 sterling silver and in 9K, 10K, 14K and 18K gold. Rings, pendants, earrings, bangles, bracelets, brooches and full matching sets, in whatever style you can describe.

Most jewelry sold today, including a lot of it sold as handmade, starts life as molten metal poured into a mould. That is casting. It is the fastest and cheapest way to make jewelry, and for large production runs it is the right tool for the job.

But casting has a known weak point. As the metal cools inside the mould, tiny air pockets stay trapped in it. Jewelers call this porosity. It leaves the metal softer and more likely to bend, dent or crack, and it shows up first at thin points like prongs, shanks and clasps.

Working by hand skips the mould entirely. We start with a solid sheet, wire or ingot and shape it ourselves: hammering, stretching, sawing, filing and soldering it into the finished piece. That working of the metal does something casting cannot. It compacts the metal as it is shaped, so the finished piece ends up denser and harder, and it stays that way. Prongs grip tighter. Settings do not loosen as quickly. Fine, delicate detail that would be fragile in cast metal holds up well when it is worked by hand.

It takes longer at the bench and costs more in labour, because there is no shortcut for shaping metal one piece at a time. We think it is worth it, and clients who have had a piece cast elsewhere and then remade by hand usually agree.

Goldsmith shaping a piece by hand at the bench
Filing and finishing a handmade piece at the bench
  • No porosity weakening the metal
  • Harder, denser metal from working it, not pouring it
  • Stronger prong tips that hold stones longer
  • Fine detail and two tone work moulds cannot reproduce
  • Every piece finished and checked under magnification

Side by side

Handmade and cast

Both methods have their place. Here is the honest difference.

Handmade
Cast
How it is made
HandmadeShaped from solid metal at the bench, one piece at a time
CastMolten metal poured into a mould
Metal density
HandmadeWork hardened as it is shaped, denser and harder
CastSofter, with some porosity left in the metal
Fine detail
HandmadeHolds delicate detail and thin sections well
CastThin sections and prongs are the weak points
Two tone work
HandmadeMixed metals worked directly into one piece
CastParts cast separately, then joined
Design freedom
HandmadeAny shape, sized exactly to your stone
CastLimited to the mould
Best for
HandmadeOne off pieces, heirloom quality, fine detail
CastLarge identical production runs
Two tone handmade ring combining yellow and white metal
Second view of the same two tone handmade piece

Two metals worked into a single piece. Cast versions are made as separate parts and joined afterwards.

Close up of a handmade white gold ring showing the hand finished inscription inside the band

Inside a white gold band, filed and polished by hand.

What we make

Any piece, in gold or silver

Pieces

  • Rings and engagement rings
  • Pendants and necklaces
  • Earrings
  • Bangles and bracelets
  • Brooches and pins
  • Cufflinks and men's jewelry
  • Full matching sets

Metals

  • 925 sterling silver
  • 9K gold
  • 10K gold
  • 14K gold
  • 18K gold

Gold in yellow, white or rose. We have also made pieces in platinum on request, so ask if that is what you need. If you want a particular karat, alloy colour, or two metals combined in one piece, tell us and we will confirm it is workable before you commit to anything.

Recent work

Pieces from the bench

A selection of finished work in gold, white gold, sterling silver and gold plated silver. Every one of these was made by hand to a client's design.

More finished pieces in our online jewelry store.

Mountings & semi-mounts

Settings made to your stone

If you only need the setting, we make that too. A mounting is a finished piece built ready for its centre stone, and ours are made by hand to the exact measurements of the stone going into it rather than pulled from a stock mould.

Mounting being filed at the bench with the stone waiting beside it

The stone first, then the setting built around it.

Built to measurement

Send the dimensions of your stone, or the stone itself, and the seat is cut to fit it. No forcing a stone into a setting that was never made for it.

Any setting style

Prong, bezel, channel, pave, halo, three stone and cluster. Solitaires through to full bridal sets in silver or gold.

For the trade

Designers and retailers can order semi-mounts in batches to their own spec and sizing, with repeat work made to the same pattern each time.

Set here or ship bare

We can set your stone before shipping, or send the mounting unset so your own jeweler finishes it. Your call.

Matched pairs and sets

Earring pairs and matching sets built to the same pattern, so the finish and proportions read the same across every piece.

Sized before it ships

Ring sizing confirmed with you before the piece is finished, so it arrives ready to wear rather than needing rework.

Why this matters

Most stock semi-mounts on the market are cast in fixed sizes, so you end up hunting for a stone that fits the setting. Building the mounting by hand reverses that. The stone leads and the metal follows, which means less metal, a closer fit and a better hold.

Your stones

Already have the stone? We will build around it

Because we facet and treat gemstones ourselves, most of our jewelry clients start with a stone rather than an empty setting. That might be a sapphire we cut for you, a stone from your own collection, or a piece you have inherited and want reset.

If it is an heirloom, we will assess the stone honestly, tell you whether it can be used as it is or would benefit from re-cutting, and design around it. Old gold or silver from a piece you no longer wear can often be melted and worked into the new one, so nothing sentimental has to leave your hands.

Need the stone cut first? See our gem cutting services and custom lapidary, or browse loose stones.

A chain and a loose sapphire before being made into a pendant
The same sapphire set into a handmade Montana outline pendant with the chain attached

A client's own chain and sapphire, made into a custom Montana outline pendant.

Repair & redesign

Old pieces, made new

Not every job starts from a blank sheet.

Chipped tanzanite before recutting
The same tanzanite recut and set into an 18K white gold ring with diamonds

A chipped tanzanite, recut and set into an 18K white gold ring with diamonds. We take on metal repairs just as often, from worn prongs and thin shanks to broken clasps.

Resetting

Move stones from a piece you no longer wear into something you will.

Structural repair

Rebuild worn prongs, thin shanks and broken clasps before a stone is lost.

Restoration

Bring back inherited pieces that have been damaged or badly repaired before.

Combining pieces

Bring stones from several old pieces together into one new design.

Resizing and refinishing

Sizing adjustments, re-polishing and rhodium finishing.

Not sure it can be saved?

Send photos first. We will tell you honestly what is possible before you ship anything.

How it works

From idea to finished piece

01

Send us the idea

A sketch, a reference photo, or a description. Tell us the metal, karat and stone, or send the stone itself.

02

We quote it

We talk through settings, sizing and finish, then give you a firm price and a date before any work starts.

03

Made at the bench

Your piece is shaped from raw metal by hand, then each stone is set and secured under magnification.

04

Checked and shipped

Polished and checked for symmetry, fit and stone security. Photos or video for your approval, then insured tracked shipping worldwide.

Sketch to finished piece

Customer's original design sketch
The same design as a finished handmade piece

A customer's sketch, and what it became at the bench.

Turnaround

Days, not weeks

Most custom jewelers quote four to six weeks because the work goes out to a casting house and comes back. Ours never leaves the bench.

Bench time

Made in house, start to finish

No moulds to cut, no waiting on a third party, no queue behind a production run. One goldsmith takes the piece from raw metal to finished, which is why the timeline looks nothing like the industry norm.

½ to 2 days Rings, pendants and earringsStraightforward designs, single stone or simple settings.
3 to 4 days Larger and complex piecesMulti stone work, heavy bangles, detailed sets and intricate designs.
+ shipping Insured and trackedTransit time depends on your country and the service you choose. See shipping and payments.

Times are bench time from design approval. You get a firm date with your quote.

Materials & quality

What goes into your piece

Metals

Verified purity in the karat and colour you specify. If you want a particular alloy for hardness or colour, tell us at quote stage and we will work to it.

Stones

Use your own, or we source them. Ceylon sapphires are our own trade, so we supply and cut them directly. Certification is available through our lab testing service.

Benchwork

Solder joints cleaned so they do not read as joints. Edges finished so the piece is comfortable to wear, not just good in photos.

Final check

Symmetry, weight, stone security and finish all checked before packing. Working by hand means we can correct a problem while the piece is being made, which is not possible once metal has been cast.

A range of handmade jewelry pieces made by City Gems
Several finished pieces made for different clients

Who we build for

Individuals and trade

  • Individuals who want one piece made exactly to their own design
  • Collectors and buyers with loose stones that need a setting
  • Independent designers and small brands who need a reliable bench overseas
  • Miners and dealers who want finished pieces made from their own material

If you are a designer or retailer placing repeat work, get in touch about trade terms and batch pricing on mountings.

Talk to us about trade work →

Made in Kandy

Where the craft comes from

We work out of Kandy, in the hill country of Sri Lanka. Kandyan gold and silver work is a recognised craft tradition here, passed down through families long before Sri Lanka became known worldwide for its sapphires. That background in traditional benchwork, combined with our own lapidary trade, means the person setting your stone understands how it was cut and how it should sit. More about us.

Questions

Before you order

What metals and karats can I choose?

925 sterling silver, and 9K, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, white or rose. Gold and silver are our main trade. We have also made pieces in platinum on request, so ask if that is what you need.

Can you copy a design I found online?

Yes. Most jewelry designs are not protected, so if you have found something you like, send us the photo and we will make it for you, sized to your stone and your finger. The only time we will raise it with you is if the piece is a well known trademarked design from a major house, and even then we will usually suggest a small change rather than turn the job away.

Do you only set stones you have cut yourselves?

No. We are happy to set stones you already own or bought elsewhere, as long as we can inspect them first.

Can I order a mounting without a stone?

Yes. Send us the measurements of your stone and we will build the mounting to fit it, then ship it unset for your own jeweler to finish. If you would rather we set it, send the stone and we will do both.

How long does a piece take?

Half a day to two days at the bench for most rings, pendants and earrings. Three to four days for larger or more complex pieces, depending on the design. Shipping is on top of that. You get a firm date with your quote.

Do you do casting?

Our work is handmade, and that is what we recommend for one off and fine detail pieces. We do take on cast work by request, and when we do we control the pour carefully to keep porosity down and finish the piece by hand to the same standard. For large identical production runs, a dedicated casting house is usually the better fit, and we will tell you so rather than take the job.

How do you price custom work?

Metal type and weight, stone work, and how much bench time the design needs. Complex designs and higher karats cost more. You always get a firm quote before work starts. Send us your design and we will price it.

Can I see it before it ships?

Yes. We can send photos or video at key stages for your approval.

Can you repair or remake something I already own?

Yes. Send photos first and we will tell you what is realistic before you ship anything.

Do you ship internationally?

Yes. Insured and tracked, worldwide. See shipping and payments for details.

Start a piece

Have a design in mind?

Send us your sketch, your photo or your stone and we will quote it. No obligation, and we will tell you straight if there is a better way to make it.

Want to see finished work first? Browse our online jewelry store or read client reviews.